Saturday, November 19, 2011

fall times two

we were so lucky to have two gorgeous falls this year.  in october we traveled north for some awesome maine and new hampshire fall love...
the flight to boston was clear and beautiful.  we were able to follow our flight along the chesapeake bay, right over manhattan (such a cool view of central park!), and along the connecticut coast line (we were pretty sure we saw nick and melissa's beach).
once we arrived in boston we pointed the car north. first stop....

      good beer.     



we finally got to meet candy's dear friends - bill & holly in yarmouth!  they were kind enough to take us in our first night on the road. 




  we hadn't gotten far from bill & holly's when we spotted delorme from the highway... what a great surprise!  delorme makes the greatest gazeteers... maps to the backwoods, backroads, and just all around great exploration!  our seven delormes are a staple of our map collection.


 and we had no idea the largest globe would be here.











a little stop to stretch in auburn/lewiston




 




we were excited to get north to maine's carrabassett valley.  we stopped in quaint kingfield to make sandwiches and picnic next to the carrabassett river. 
flagstaff lake and the beautiful bigelows...
our route took us southwest through the great maine mountains...past rangeley
and south to bethel.  of course we had to stop at ebenezer's in lovell, me for a beer before crossing the border out of maine.
i have always been in love with the maine/new hampshire border.  it's a great area of wildness that is just outside the reach of the masses of the white's presidential range.  the mix of hardwoods and conifers made for some nice colors.



we spent the night at the base of mt washington and its president neighbors; clay, jefferson, adams, and madison.

the whites are amazing - so much exposed granite and so much above treeline!  we drove through the northern part of the whites; from gorham up north past berlin and looped back around into the northeast kingdom of vermont.  vermont had not been on our itinerary, however with the famous kingdom bike trails so close we had to check it out. 
burke mountain is a small local ski area (the kind we like).   the lifts were running for mountain bikes.

darling state forest
mt pisgah (of the north)

  





  a stop at cabot.
important discussions of cheese

 ahh...vermont

after a couple of days touring vermont's northeast kingdom we ducked back into new hampshire.  
where is that old man?


 the famous polly's pancake parlor in sugar hill.





 we spent the last bit of time north of franconia notch and over by the lovely crawford notch.  
bethlehem, nh



i hadn't seen a moose since alaska!




it was a whirlwind, gorgeous trip in which we covered a lot of ground.  we left loving new england but also had a renewed love of the southern appalachians and their vastness.  we were looking forward to heading home to our second fall in the southern appalachians.

Sunday, October 30, 2011

west virginia

a few months ago mike was able to head up to new jersey to celebrate his sister's engagement.  pete proposed to jill at the peddie school chapel and the extended wojtowicz/guarracino family spent a celebratory weekend hunkered down during hurricane irene.

unfortunately, i did not have enough time to join the party.  the dogs and i decided to take the few days i had off and head to a part of the country i've always wanted to explore - west virginia.

quinn, beulah, and i started the trip in boone, nc - meeting up with our dear leadville friend, becky.  at the time, becky's adventures consisted of attending two gillian welch shows a week (ahh!! the good life) - so i joined her for the boone show.  gillian and david rawlings performed the new album in its entirety.  beautiful!  becky is a bit of a gillian welch encyclopedia so seeing the show with her adds a whole new level of understanding and appreciation to their songs and history.  we camped off the blue ridge parkway at moses cone.  a great start to the road trip!

 the dogs and i headed north to west va's allegheny mountains.  our first destination was spruce knob (4863 ft), the highest point in west virginia.  with hurricane irene moving up the coast we had bands of crazy wind and rain move through.  when the clouds cleared the view was lovely!
we set up camp just outside of seneca rocks.
 woke up to a beautiful, bluebird sky day.  the destination for the morning was the north end of spruce knob-seneca rocks national recreation area.  specifically, north fork mountain.  the dogs and i hiked up to the ridge line that contained the chimney rocks.  this part of the monongahela national forest is a really cool mix of southern and northern flora.  pines that reminded me of georgia and moss and firs that looked like maine.  
 


 

we headed back down the mountain to the north fork of the south branch of the potomac river.  i remembered being in awe of the potomac from mount vernon when i first saw it twenty years ago and its confluence with the shenandoah at harpers ferry must be one of my favorite confluences ever....loved being at the headwaters for a river seeped in american history.  



we made a short trip to the northwest to reach a place i have wanted to visit for years...dolly sods. 


we headed first to the small red creek campground to set up our home base.  the girls made themselves right at home.
 
historically this area was filled with red spruce and hemlocks (up to 12 ft in diameter) but was completely clear cut in the early 1900s. the protection of dolly sods was originally facilitated by the nature conservancy. after the north end of dolly sods was purchased the entire area was donated to the forest service and managed as wilderness. dollly sods is now 17,371 acres.  we spent most of our limited time in dolly sods north - the area charaterized by high grass balds and cranberry bogs.
bear rocks
it was late in the afternoon and we took a little cross-country adventure.  heading north (crossing just out of the wilderness boundary) to stack rocks - we were able to get amazing 360 views.



beulah loving the bogs



the charm of dolly sods for me is its resemblance to regions much farther north.  i couldnt help but be reminded of time spent exploring the alaskan tundra.  quinn felt right at home.



 headed back to the campsite, cooked up some dinner, and spent the rest of the evening reading.  the dogs were happily exhausted.
my 12 year old camps in comfort

classic beulah - sleeping on her back
the next day i planned a hike to the western boundary. 
this area was used as a mortar range during WWII - luckily the dogs did not detonate any bombs



red creek - its dark, red color comes from the tannic acid in hemlock and red spruce needles


photo for mike


the terminus of our hike was on cabin mountain - looking down to the canaan valley.  there are so many places in this corner of west virginia that i still want to explore - the canaan valley and blackwater canyon.   and of course the forests of the sourthern portion of dolly sods (i never could tear myself away from the amazing high plains of dolly sods north).  i am waiting for my west virginia friend, alycia (who knows every crook and cranny of tucker county), to be my tour guide...
i haven't fallen in love with an area like dolly sods in a while.  it was hard to turn the car south. 
the trip continued south through west virginia's tygart valley.  we took a little detour on the highland scenic parkway - west virginia's own little version of the blue ridge parkway.  it touched up to the eastern bounday of the cranberry wilderness in the yew mountains - a large (almost 48,000 acres) tract of wild land that completely took me by surprised.  i hadn't heard much about this area and was blown away by its wildness and beauty.  however, i was on a mission to the new river gorge.  definitely on my list of future adventures....

a quick hike under the new river gorge bridge          spent the last night of the trip next to the new river.  beulah and i just had to take a night swim in the second oldest river in the world.  

before heading home we stopped to visit the famous new river gorge bridge - one of the longest arch bridges in the world (3030 feet).  here is a photo of both the new and old bridge from the same vantage point -gives a good perspective to the height of the new bridge (876 feet).
it was a great trip and dolly sods stole my heart...but i was ready to go home, see mike, and hear all about the engagement!  congrats to jill & pete!